Hopi Kachinas--repair and restoration

Greetings; This guide is more about why not to repair a kachina--it's not going to give instructions or "how-to's." However my hope is that it will help both buyers and sellers to know why some repairs are OK and others can ruin the value of their doll. When you finish reading, please vote yes or no to let me know if you found it helpful.
Have you ever bought a kachina on okay or elsewhere and have it arrive with bits broken off? This is chronic in a world where people use those #*%!! stryofoam peanuts. Items drift to the bottom of the box and then bounce around with nothing to support them. I can't count the times I've poured out a boxful of peanuts to take to the packing store to recycle and found a rattle, a horn, an ear...argh!
Tips for proper packing follow, but first let's discuss therepair and restoration of kachinas. In the cases above, a small dab of white glue is your friend. In most cases the parts that gee off do break at an existing seam or joint, so a repair is not noticeable and should not affect the value of the doll. Ideally, to be properly archival, one should use polyvinyl acetate (PVA), a chemically neutral white glue--but regular old Elmer's is fine for most work.
What about significant missing pieces (arms and legs), paint damage, broken feathers, and other more extreme restoration challenges? In the museum world the motto is: When In Doubt, Do Nothing. The goal here is to maintain the object as-found. Since many kachinas have received damage in everyday handling by their original (Hopi) owners, any wear-and-tear should be considered normal to the piece. Native repairs--that is, work done by the original maker or owner before the item enters the economy--should be kept as-is and not reversed.
Collectors, on the other hand, view a damaged or ingeplete doll as a poor investment. As in any discipline, condition is everything to the value of the item. So it is tempting to try to "fix" something. Thebad news is that most amateur attempts at repair actually cause more damage in the long term--like the well-meaning folks who think all kachinas need to have a base, and carefully nail, screw, or glue a doll meant as a wall-hanger onto a slab of pine. I have one vintage Small River kachina that someone glued firmly to the base of another doll and sold as a Snow Maiden by another artist, even though the original doll still has its cotton hanging-string. Trying to remove the doll from the base would certainly damage it, so I've left it as-is, however reluctantly.
I have done minimal repair work on the dolls that I acquire. If a modern piece is damaged, it's often possible to track down the original artist and gemission a repair that is appropriate to the doll. In the case of old or vintagedolls, any attempt torestore things yourself should be resisted. Paint touch-ups especially can ruin the value of a doll. There are people who specialize in professional restoration, and as long as the repair/replacement is documented as part of the provenance of the doll, it's fine to make this investment. Just understand that you will still not have an as-new product.
Sellers: just as vintage Navajo silver should be left as-is and not polished, a Hopi or Zuni kachina doll should not be cleaned, repaired, or changed in any way to make it more attractive. Sell the item as-is and leave restoration up to the buyer. Always include any loose parts that gee with the doll.
Buyers: do your homework on how each kachina should appear; before you bid or purchase, ask about any missing parts or regalia. It is your decision whether you want to buy a doll that has had "work" done on it, but in general if the repair is not easily reversible your investment may not be worth it. If in doubt about how much to do to your own dolls, seek advice from another collector or from a reputable dealer. Remember the museum motto: when in doubt, do nothing.
In closing: a tip about packing. These dolls need support for their feathers and other sticky-outy bits. I regemend a gentle tie-down onto a flat piece of cardboard that is slightlylarger than any feather fans or pahos, and always wrap the doll in tissue or something to protect it from smudges and to'capture' anything that may gee loose. Use crumpled newspaper or plastic grocery bags as packing material, to provide support as well as flexibility. Do not use peanuts! The ideal packing job is a double box, which provides (literally) an extra level of protection.
Your investment in authentic kachinas is worth protecting. If you are a seller, your attention to detail and care for your products will win you loyal customers, I guarantee it.